Eagles hunt on the cliffs above Petracos, or so local naturalists say, and you may well see kestrels and griffon vultures riding the thermals along the limestone edge in the middle of the day. Bonelli's eagle lives in the mountains of Alicante, though it is shy and hard to pin down. The plateau itself is a rough mosaic of kermes oak, pine, rosemary and the spiny scrub that rustles when the wind moves, and in spring there are small orchids in the damper spots. The shelters are tucked under the lip of the rock, four kilometres or so from Castell de Castells.
The road in comes by way of Callosa d'en Sarrià and the Guadalest valley, and it is one of the most enjoyable climbs in the province. Tight at first, with hairpins, it settles into a long series of curves that let you enjoy the rising views. The surface is mostly good, and cyclists use it often, so take care on blind bends. In summer, ride early to avoid the heat, and in winter be alert for damp and cold on the shaded side of the valley.
In this part of Alicante you are in the wrong place if you want to be alone with a famous painting, and in the right place if you like context. Petracos is a plateau with shelters in a group, and the experience is cumulative: one overhang with a few faint marks, another with a clearer figure, a third that is mostly stain. The sum is a feeling for how often and for how long these walls were used. The people who painted them left no names, only a repertoire of archers, animals and signs.
For fuel and food, go to Pego, eleven kilometres away, which has stations, restaurants and shops, and a famous rice-growing wetland nearby. The villages on the plateau have a bar and little more, and the nearest ones, Castell de Castells and Vall d'Ebo, are worth a short stop simply for the quiet.