Close to the Black Sea coast of western Georgia, north of the port city of Poti, the land dissolves into marsh. This is the Colchic lowland, where the Rioni and smaller rivers have built a wide plain of peat bogs, alder swamps and lakes, and Pitshora is one of the wetland areas protected here as part of the Colchic Rainforests and Wetlands World Heritage site, listed in 2021. The rains are heavy, the air is warm and humid, and the vegetation is lush in a way that feels almost tropical, surprising if you think of the Caucasus as dry mountains.
This is the ancient land of Colchis, where, according to Greek myth, Jason and the Argonauts came in search of the Golden Fleece. The story may preserve a memory of real trade between the Greeks and the peoples of the Black Sea coast, and some scholars connect the fleece with the old practice of using sheepskins to catch gold particles in mountain streams. Greek colonies were founded along the coast, and Poti grew up near the site of ancient Phasis.
The wetlands are an important habitat for birds, especially during migration, when huge numbers pass along the Black Sea coast between Europe and Africa. Herons, pelicans, cormorants and birds of prey are common, and the peat bogs, some of the oldest in the region, support rare plants and insects. The Kolkheti National Park, centred on Lake Paliastomi near Poti, offers boat trips through the wetlands.
The riding in western Georgia is an adventure. The main roads are generally paved but can be rough, with potholes, livestock wandering freely and local drivers who overtake with abandon. Cows lying on the asphalt are a classic Georgian road hazard. The roads along the coast are flat, but inland, the mountains of Svaneti and Racha offer some of the most spectacular riding in the Caucasus, on roads that range from new asphalt to rough gravel. The best season is late spring and early autumn, as summer can be hot and humid in the lowlands.
Poti, about twelve kilometres away, has fuel, shops and restaurants. Khobi and Ureki, a beach resort famous for its black magnetic sand, are nearby. Georgian food is a highlight: try khachapuri, cheese-filled bread, Megrelian style with extra cheese on top, and spicy dishes with walnut sauce. Georgian hospitality is legendary, so be prepared for generous meals and toasts.