Pirque lies on the southern edge of Santiago, where the sprawl of the city thins out into vineyards and the Andes begin to fill the eastern sky. It is a small town with a large reputation for wine, and one of the biggest wine houses in Chile has its headquarters and original estate here. The Maipo valley, in which it sits, is Chile's classic region for Cabernet Sauvignon, and the vineyards run in neat lines toward the foothills, with the snow-capped peaks of the Andes behind them on a clear day. The setting is a lovely contrast to the busy city.
The road from Pirque leads toward the Cajón del Maipo, a deep canyon cut by the Maipo river into the mountains, and it is the natural return route for riders coming down from the Andes. Here the road passes through a landscape of orchards, vineyards and small farms, with poplars along the edges of the fields and the river valley opening toward the plain. Santiago's air can be thick with smog in winter, and a clear day after rain gives a sharp, bright view of the mountains. Evening light on the Andes, when the peaks turn pink, is one of the great sights of central Chile.
As a fuel stop, Pirque is practical rather than glamorous. Puente Alto, a large suburb of more than half a million people, lies about two and a half kilometres away, and its stations are numerous and open late. La Pintana and San Bernardo are also close. Fill the tank before you head back into the city or out toward the mountains, because services along the canyon are limited.
The ride into the canyon from here has gentle curves at first, then tightens as the walls close in, with tunnels, waterfalls and river views. In summer the road is busy with weekend visitors, and in winter, snow can close the upper sections. Take care on corners, where gravel and sand accumulate, and watch for stray dogs and animals on the road.
Wine tasting is an option, though a rider should treat it as a small sip and not a meal. Many estates open to visitors by appointment, and the cellars and gardens are worth a look. For a quieter pause, small cafés and bakeries in town serve empanadas, fresh bread and coffee.
The city is close enough that lights begin to glow on the horizon as you return. Keep a layer for the cool evening air that comes down from the mountains.