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Pinós

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Inland from the busy coast of the Marina Alta, behind Benissa and Calp, the land folds into a series of steep, terraced valleys where almond and olive trees cling to dry-stone walls and white farmhouses sit among the pines. Pinós is a rural area in the hills near Benissa, Senija and Jalón, and the rides link it to the rock-art shelters of the barrancs, the ravines that cut through the limestone of this region, part of the UNESCO listing of Mediterranean prehistoric art. The exact contents of the nearby shelters are for specialists, but the landscape itself has a quiet, timeless beauty, especially in the soft light of late afternoon.

The Jalón valley, just to the west, is known for its vineyards producing sweet moscatel wine and raisins, and in late January and February the almond blossom turns the valley pink and white. Jalón has a large Saturday flea market, and the local bodegas sell wine straight from the barrel. Benissa, about four kilometres away, has a well-preserved old town with a neo-Gothic church locals call the cathedral of the Marina, and its own stretch of rocky coves.

The riding is a highlight: the roads from Benissa through the hills to Jalón, Alcalalí and Parcent, and up to the Coll de Rates pass with its views over the valleys to the sea, are some of the best on the Costa Blanca, with tight bends, steep sections and very little traffic outside the weekends, when cyclists in large groups come out in force, as the Coll de Rates is a favourite training climb for professional teams in winter. Surfaces are generally good, though gravel and dust gather on the corners, and the coastal N-332 is busy, especially in summer. Winter is mild and sunny, and the best season for riding; summer can be very hot.

Benissa has fuel, supermarkets and restaurants, and the coast has endless options for food and accommodation, though prices are higher in the tourist centres. Inland, village restaurants serve hearty dishes like arroz al horno, oven-baked rice with pork, chickpeas and blood sausage, and putxero, a stew of meat and vegetables. A glass of moscatel with almonds after a ride in the hills is a fine local tradition.

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