The Pinnacles are thousands of limestone pillars standing in a field of yellow sand, in Nambung National Park, about two hundred kilometres north of Perth, on the Indian Ocean coast of Western Australia. Some are knee-high, others taller than a person, and they rise out of the desert like a ruined city or a field of tombstones, glowing orange at sunset. Nobody is entirely sure how they formed, but the leading theory is that they are the remains of a limestone layer made from ancient seashells, with the pillars forming where plant roots channelled water and hardened the rock, then exposed when the sand blew away.
Jurien Bay, a town of under two thousand people about thirty-five kilometres away, is the nearest sizeable place, though the coastal village of Cervantes is closer, a small fishing town known for its rock lobster, and it has fuel, a shop and a few places to eat. The coast here is a line of white dunes and turquoise water, with bays full of sea lions and dolphins, and the Indian Ocean Drive, the coastal route from Perth, is a quiet, scenic alternative to the main highway.
Inside the park, a one-way loop of about four kilometres winds through the pillars on a gravel road. It is generally graded and suitable for careful riding, though sand can build up on corners and soft patches appear, so take it slowly and keep your feet ready. A park fee applies, and a visitor centre has information and exhibits. The best times are early morning and late afternoon, when the low light brings the colours out and the heat is less fierce. Midday is harsh and the shadows vanish.
Wildlife is part of the experience. Emus wander through the park, kangaroos graze at the edges, and in spring wildflowers appear, with the west coast famous for its wild blooms from August to October. Summer is very hot, and the sun is strong, so carry water, wear a hat and keep drinking.
Fill up in Cervantes or Jurien Bay, since the road between towns is long and empty. The whole area has a peaceful feel, with a salty wind and the sound of insects, and sunset at the Pinnacles is one of the memorable moments on the Coral Coast.