At fourteen thousand one hundred and fifteen feet, or 4,302 metres, the summit of Pikes Peak is a cold, bright, windy platform at the eastern edge of the Rockies, and there is a feeling of having arrived somewhere that is not quite the planet you started on. The air holds about sixty percent of the oxygen you are used to, so walking from the bike to the summit house is enough to make you breathe hard, and a headache or dizziness is common. Take it slowly, drink water and do not rush.
The view makes the effort worthwhile. To the east, the high plains stretch out flat to the horizon, with Colorado Springs and its grid of streets laid out below. To the west, the ranks of the Sawatch and Mosquito ranges run into the distance, often with snow on the tops. A cog railway, completed in 1891, climbs from Manitou Springs, and some riders time their arrival to see the train come in. The summit house sells the famous high-altitude doughnuts, made with a special recipe to cope with the thin air, and they are hot, sweet and more than welcome.
Getting here is an adventure. The upper stretch of the highway is above the treeline, in barren granite rubble and tundra, with sharp switchbacks and big drops on one side. The wind can be fierce, and snow can fall in any month. There may be ice on the road even in July, so it is worth checking with the rangers about conditions. The descent is as important as the climb: long, steep gradients put a lot of heat into brakes, so use low gears and engine braking, and give your brakes time to rest.
Allow time for the descent, because the road is slow, and watch for marmots on the rocks. Dress warmly, with gloves and a windproof layer, and bring sunglasses, since the sun at this altitude is strong. The best weather is generally in the morning, and storms often arrive by early afternoon.