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Pig Trail Scenic Byway point 3

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Further north, the Boston Mountains begin to relax. The ridges flatten into a broad plateau, the hairpins ease into longer, smoother bends, and the road settles into a gentle rhythm through deep hardwood forest with occasional clearings for farms, hay meadows and small chapels. The nearest towns, Huntsville and Elkins, lie off to the north and west, and between them is some of the quietest country in Arkansas.

The forest here is an important and beautiful one. The Ozark National Forest covers more than a million acres of oak, hickory and shortleaf pine, and the rocks beneath are mostly sandstone and limestone, which dissolve slowly into caves, springs and sinkholes. Black bears, wiped out in the region by the early twentieth century, were reintroduced from Minnesota in the 1950s and 60s, and today the Arkansas Ozarks hold a healthy population. Wild turkeys, white-tailed deer and, in the creeks, small fish and crayfish are all present, though bears are rarely seen from the road.

The road itself is a joy for a relaxed rider. The surface is generally well kept, and the traffic is light on weekdays. The curves are long and open, often with good sight lines, which allows a smooth, easy pace. The stretch is also a fine place to look at the details: the moss on the roadside rocks, the creek crossings, the old stone walls and the mailboxes made from milk churns. The Arkansas Ozarks have a handful of old general stores, and some of them still serve a plate of biscuits and gravy, or a slice of pie and a coffee.

Fuel is the main practical concern. There are no stations in this stretch of forest, and the nearest, in Huntsville, Elkins or Ozark, lie more than thirty kilometres away. Keep the tank above half, and carry water and snacks, because the road can be empty for long periods. A wrong turn onto a forest road can end in gravel or mud, so stay on the signed highway unless your bike is built for it.

Spring and fall are the best seasons for the ride. In April, redbud and dogwood bloom, and in October the colours are spectacular. Summer is hot and humid, with thunderstorms in the afternoon, and winter brings occasional ice on the shaded bends. If you are heading north toward Fayetteville, the route eases into a more open landscape of pasture and small towns.

Read it in a ride

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