Past Cass the road finally starts to do what its reputation promises. The forest closes in, the hills steepen, and Highway 23 begins to wind through a run of tight, banked hairpins that climb and drop through deep hardwood forest, with the Mulberry River tucked away on the left in a rocky valley. This is the Boston Mountains, the highest and roughest part of the Ozarks, a plateau cut by streams into a maze of steep ridges and hollows, and the forest of oak, hickory and maple is among the most extensive in the central United States.
Riding here is a pleasure that needs some attention. The corners come in sequences, some tight, some open, and the surface is usually good, though it can be strewn with sand, gravel and leaves, especially after rain. Blind bends are common, and local riders and cars often cut the centre line, so stay to your side and look through the turn. The road is also popular with cyclists, and on a fall weekend, it can fill with riders from dawn to dusk. The speed limit is modest and police patrols are frequent, so the best approach is to ride fluidly and enjoy the rhythm.
The Mulberry is a designated National Wild and Scenic River, and a favourite among canoeists and kayakers, who run it in spring when the rain has filled it. A small store at one of the river crossings sells snacks, drinks and gifts, and serves as a meeting point for riders, and in season you can sit on its porch with a cold drink and watch the traffic. Stop and ask the locals about the best loop roads, because they know them well.
Fuel is not available along this stretch. Ozark lies about twenty-three kilometres south, and the next real supply to the north is in Fayetteville or Huntsville, so check your tank. Cell coverage is patchy in the hollows. Carry some water, a basic tool kit and a tyre repair kit.
Autumn is the peak season. The forest turns red, orange and gold in mid to late October, and the smell of leaf litter and woodsmoke follows you through the bends. In spring the dogwoods bloom white in the understory, and the creeks run high. Summer is green and humid, and a cool breeze in the hollows is a relief. Keep an eye on the sky, because storms can build quickly.