At 4,118 metres, Pico El Águila is the highest point on any road in Venezuela, and arriving there feels like reaching the roof of a different world. The vegetation has changed completely: below the pass lie cloud forest and farmland, but up here is páramo, a high, treeless Andean landscape of tussock grass, lakes, and the strange silver-grey frailejones, tall plants with furry leaves that look like they belong on another planet. A stone monument with a condor stands near the top, marking the spot.
The air is thin and cold, and a rider who has come up from the plains can feel it in the head and in the engine. A motorcycle loses power at this altitude, and the rider may feel breathless or lightheaded. It is sensible to stop and rest, drink water, and not hurry. The wind can be fierce, and clouds can sweep over the pass in moments, so visibility can fall to a few metres. In clear weather, though, the view over the mountains and valleys is vast, and the sky is a deep, clear blue.
The road across the pass is the Trans-Andean Highway, climbing from the Barinas side through a series of hairpins and then dropping toward the Mérida side, through the high valley of Apartaderos and the villages beyond. It is well graded but narrow in places, with steep drops and few barriers. Frost is possible at night even in the dry season, and rain, hail, and sudden fog are common. Take it slowly and keep your speed down on the descent, because brakes overheat and corners come at you quickly.
Small cafes and stalls in the villages on either side sell hot drinks and snacks, which are welcome after the cold of the summit. The nearest big towns are some distance away, and it is wise to check road and security conditions locally before travelling. Dry-season mornings, between December and March, offer the best chance of a clear view, and the sight of condors, if you are lucky, is something to remember.