At 1,949 metres, the Pico de las Nieves is the highest point on Gran Canaria, and it rises out of the middle of the island like the hub of a wheel, with deep ravines radiating in all directions to the coast. The name means Peak of the Snows, and although snow is rare, it does fall in some winters, sometimes enough to close the road and bring families up from the coast to see it. In clear weather the view takes in the whole island and, to the west, the peak of Teide on Tenerife, floating above a layer of cloud.
The island is a volcanic cone worn down by millions of years of erosion, which is why the landscape is so extreme: the inner highlands are full of sheer-sided gorges, jagged rock spires and long ridges. Not far from the peak stands the Roque Nublo, a basalt monolith about eighty metres high, which is a sacred site for the island's pre-Hispanic inhabitants and a favourite walk today. The forest on the slopes is Canary pine, a tough species with long needles that can regrow after fire and which drips with fog moisture, adding to the water supply of the island.
For riders, the roads here are the highlight of Gran Canaria. From Tejeda or San Bartolomé, the road climbs through pine forest in a series of curves, with sharp hairpins and big drops, and the views change at every turn. The surface is generally good, but narrow, with a few rough spots, and in clear weather it is a paradise. Cloud and fog can roll in quickly, however, and the temperature at the top can be much lower than on the coast. Do not be surprised to need a jacket in August. Cyclists are common, so take extra care.
San Bartolomé de Tirajana, about four kilometres away, has stations and supermarkets, and Tejeda has a couple of bars and a bakery famous for almond sweets. Tejeda blossoms with almond flowers in late January and February, when the valleys turn pink and white. The bars on the route serve strong coffee and plates of local cheese.
The weather is the main gamble. A clear morning, before cloud rises from the coast, gives the best views.