One of the oldest written stones in Japan stands near Yoshii. The Tago stele, carved in the early eighth century to commemorate the creation of a new district, is part of a group of three ancient monuments in the area that were added to UNESCO's Memory of the World register in 2017. It is a modest stone under a protective roof, but its age and significance give pause in a landscape of fields and low hills.
Yoshii, now part of the city of Takasaki in Gunma Prefecture, sits in the valley of the Kabura river, where the Kanto plain meets the mountains to the west. The landscape is rural, with rice paddies, vegetable fields and orchards, and the hills rise towards the jagged volcanic peaks of Mount Myōgi, one of the three famous mountains of Gunma. The area is known for its silk heritage, and the Tomioka silk mill, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is a short ride away.
On the bike, things are pleasant. The roads in the valley are flat and straight, but those heading into the mountains, towards Myōgi and Shimonita, are winding and steep, with great views. Shimonita is famous for its leeks and konnyaku, and the roads beyond climb towards Nagano. Traffic is light outside the towns, but watch for farm vehicles and for gravel on mountain roads.
Yoshii has fuel, konbini-style convenience stores and plenty of places to eat. A stop at a roadside station, a michi-no-eki, offers local produce, snacks and clean toilets. The Bōsō Peninsula lies far to the south-east, beyond Tokyo, so consider this a pleasant interlude before the long ride across the plain.