Yangju lies north of Seoul, beyond the granite ramparts of Bukhansan and Dobongsan, in a landscape of wooded hills, valleys and fast-growing towns. In the Joseon dynasty, this area was close to the capital and important to the royal court, and the ruins of Hoeamsa, a great Buddhist temple patronised by the early Joseon kings, lie at the foot of Cheonbosan. The site has been excavated, and a museum explains the temple's history.
The hills around Yangju are cut by valleys with clear streams, and in summer Koreans flock to them to escape the heat, sitting on rocks with their feet in the water, picnicking under the trees and, where it is allowed, swimming in the pools. The Jangheung area, north-west of the city, is a popular valley resort with restaurants, cafés and an art park. Swimming rules vary from place to place, and some streams are off-limits, so follow the signs and the locals.
The riding north of Seoul is a mix of busy arterial roads and quieter mountain routes. The roads through the hills, over passes and along the valleys, are winding and scenic, with views of granite peaks and forested slopes. Traffic can be heavy, especially on weekends and holidays, when Seoulites head out of the city. Surfaces are generally good.
Fuel and food are plentiful in Yangju and the surrounding towns. As a start and finish, Yangju is convenient, with easy access to Seoul and the mountains. A bowl of cold noodles, naengmyeon, is the perfect lunch on a hot summer day.