Porcelain with a lily trademark was once found in almost every Austrian kitchen, and much of it came from Wilhelmsburg, a small industrial town in the Traisen valley south of St. Pölten. The Lilien porcelain works were famous for their simple, practical designs, and the town has a museum devoted to the history of ceramics. Today, Wilhelmsburg is a quiet place, with a church and old factory buildings, set in a valley of meadows and forests.
The Traisen flows north from the Alps to the Danube, and its valley is a gateway to the mountains of the Mostviertel and the Pre-Alps. A short ride south lies Lilienfeld Abbey, the largest Cistercian monastery in Austria, with a magnificent church and cloister. Beyond it, the roads climb into the mountains towards Mariazell, the great pilgrimage town of Austria, through forests and over passes. To the north, St. Pölten, the capital of Lower Austria, has a baroque old centre and a modern government quarter.
The riding here is excellent. The roads follow the valley and climb into the hills and mountains, with curves, gradients and views. The roads towards Mariazell and the Annaberg are classics, with tight bends and steep climbs. Traffic is moderate, but the roads can be busy on weekends, and the weather in the mountains can change quickly. Watch for gravel and for cyclists.
Wilhelmsburg has fuel, shops and inns, making it a good stop. A Mostviertel speciality is pear cider, Most, and the local inns serve hearty Austrian dishes, such as Wiener Schnitzel and roast pork. The Neusiedler See lies to the east, beyond Vienna.