Vienne has been a city for two thousand years and it still shows it. On the east bank of the Rhône, about thirty kilometres south of Lyon, the Romans built a prosperous colony here, and the temple of Augustus and Livia still stands in the centre, as complete as when it was built, with its Corinthian columns facing a small square of cafés. Nearby a Roman theatre climbs the hillside, and every July it fills with music for a jazz festival that has become one of the best known in Europe.
For a rider, Vienne is a very practical stop. With over 32,000 people, it has fuel stations on the approaches and a good range of cafés and shops, and it is on the main route between Lyon and the south, so it is a natural place to refill and eat. Be aware that the one-way system in the centre is confusing, and that traffic backs up on the bridges across the Rhône. Park near the river and walk in.
Across the water, on the right bank, the steep terraces of Côte-Rôtie climb from the village of Ampuis, and the wines made from Syrah on those slopes are among the most celebrated in France. A little further south, Condrieu produces its fragrant white Viognier. Behind them, the Pilat massif rises in a long wooded ridge, which is one of the better riding areas in the region, with roads that twist up through chestnut woods to open crests. Vienne is the gateway.
There is a modest Roman pyramid standing alone in a field near the old circus, a curious monument whose purpose is still debated, and the cathedral of Saint-Maurice, a long Gothic building at the foot of the hill, is worth a look if you have the time. Evenings are lively in the centre, with restaurants serving Lyon-style food, and the Rhône at dusk is a pleasant place to unwind.