Lecco, at the foot of the jagged Grigne, is the town where Alessandro Manzoni set the opening of The Betrothed, the great Italian novel, and its famous first lines describe the branch of Lake Como that stretches south towards it. Valmadrera lies just across the water from Lecco, at the meeting point of the lake, the small lakes of Annone and the hills of Brianza, beneath the slopes of Monte Barro and the twin peaks of the Corni di Canzo.
The landscape is dramatic and varied. The lake is deep and narrow, with mountains rising steeply from the water, and the villages along its shores are crowded on narrow strips of land. Monte Barro, a nature park, offers wide views over the lakes and the plain of Lombardy, and the hills of the Triangolo Lariano, between the two southern arms of Lake Como, are laced with roads.
The riding is superb. The road over the Valassina towards Bellagio climbs through valleys and past villages, and the climb to the Madonna del Ghisallo, a chapel dedicated to the patron saint of cyclists, is a classic. The roads along the lake are narrow, winding and often busy, with tunnels, blind corners and traffic. Weekends bring crowds of tourists, cyclists and motorcyclists, so a weekday or an early start is advisable.
Valmadrera and Lecco have fuel stations, supermarkets and restaurants. Lecco has a pleasant lakeside promenade with cafés and gelato, perfect for a break. Then the road leads north towards the Ticino lakes and passes, with Lake Lugano, Lake Maggiore and the high Alps ahead.