Roquebillière has had to rebuild itself more than once. In 1926, a landslide swept down onto the old village, killing many of its inhabitants, and much of the population moved to a new site on the other side of the river. Then, in October 2020, Storm Alex unleashed catastrophic floods down the Vésubie valley, destroying roads, bridges and houses, and leaving scars that are still visible today. The resilience of the valley's people is remarkable, and the road has been rebuilt with new bridges and protections.
The Vésubie is one of the great valleys of the Alpes-Maritimes, cutting deep into the mountains north of Nice towards the Mercantour national park. Roquebillière sits in its middle section, surrounded by steep slopes of pine and chestnut, with high peaks rising beyond. The Templar church of Saint-Michel-du-Gast, by the river, is a remarkable Romanesque-Gothic building, and the old village has narrow lanes and stone houses.
The riding here is spectacular. The valley road climbs from the coast through gorges and villages, with tight curves and great views, and from nearby La Bollène-Vésubie, a road climbs to the Col de Turini, famous for the Monte Carlo Rally and its countless hairpins. To the north, Saint-Martin-Vésubie is the gateway to the Mercantour, with high mountain roads and trails. The surfaces are generally good, but watch for rockfall, gravel and roadworks, and allow time for the many bends.
Services in the valley are limited, so arrive with a full tank and check fuel availability before heading into the mountains. Roquebillière and Saint-Martin-Vésubie have cafés and restaurants, and the local cuisine is a mountain version of Niçois cooking, with ravioli, tourte de blettes and lamb.