In 1564, during a royal tour of France, the young king Charles IX stayed at the château of Roussillon, on the hill above what is now Le Péage-de-Roussillon, and signed an edict there that fixed the start of the year on 1 January across the kingdom. Until then, different regions began the year at Easter, Christmas or other dates. The château still stands, a Renaissance building with an elegant courtyard, overlooking the Rhône valley.
The town of Le Péage-de-Roussillon takes its name from a toll that was once collected on the road along the river. Today it is dominated by a large chemical industrial complex, one of the oldest in the Rhône valley, and its towers and pipes are a striking sight from the road. It is a working town, useful rather than pretty, with good transport links on the A7 motorway and the old N7 road.
The surrounding landscape is more appealing than the industrial zone suggests. The Rhône flows past in a wide valley, flanked by vineyards and orchards, and the hills on both sides offer winding roads and great views. To the west, across the river, rises the Pilat massif, with forests and ridges, and to the east the hills of the Bas-Dauphiné. The mistral, the strong north wind of the Rhône valley, can blow hard here, especially in winter and spring.
Le Péage-de-Roussillon has fuel stations, supermarkets and restaurants, making it a convenient stop. For a more pleasant break, head up to the château or to the riverside. From here, the route heads north-east towards the Jura, through the Bas-Dauphiné and the Bugey, with their winding roads and changing landscapes.