Fujisawa sits on Sagami Bay, south-west of Yokohama, at the heart of the Shonan coast, the stretch of beaches, surf shops and seaside towns that Tokyoites escape to on summer weekends. The town's most famous landmark is Enoshima, a small, steep island linked to the mainland by a bridge, covered with shrines, caves, gardens and seafood restaurants, with a lighthouse observation tower on top.
The Enoshima Electric Railway, the Enoden, rattles along the coast between Fujisawa and Kamakura, sometimes running down the middle of the street, and it has become an icon of the area. Kamakura, a short ride east, was the seat of Japan's first shogunate in the twelfth and thirteenth centuries, and it is full of temples and shrines, including the Great Buddha, a huge bronze statue sitting in the open air.
On clear days, especially in winter, Mount Fuji rises across the bay to the west, its snow-capped cone floating above the water. The view from Enoshima or from the beach at sunset, with the mountain silhouetted against an orange sky, is one of the classic images of Japan.
For riders, Route 134 runs along the coast through Fujisawa, with the sea on one side and pine trees on the other. It is scenic but often congested, especially on weekends and in summer. Fuel and food are plentiful. As a photo stop, the coast near Enoshima with Fuji in the background is unbeatable on a clear day. Go early, before the traffic builds.