Silver-green olive groves cover the hills of the Sabina, the ancient land of the Sabines north-east of Rome, and the oil they produce is among the oldest protected olive oils in Italy. Forano is one of the small hill towns of the area, perched above the Tiber valley with stone houses and narrow streets, and from its edges the view stretches across the river to the volcanic hills and mountains beyond.
The Sabina has a long history. The Sabines were among Rome's earliest neighbours and rivals, and the legend of the rape of the Sabine women tells of their uneasy relationship. In the Middle Ages, the great Benedictine abbey of Farfa, a short ride away, was one of the most powerful in Italy, with lands across central Italy and a famous library. It still functions, with a village of medieval houses and shops around it.
The riding here is a delight. The roads wind through olive groves, vineyards and oak woods, climbing up to hill towns and dropping into valleys, with constant views. The Via Salaria, the old Roman salt road, runs to the south, and the roads towards the Monti Sabini and Rieti offer more challenging curves and higher altitudes. Surfaces vary, and potholes are common on minor roads. Traffic is light, but watch for local drivers and agricultural vehicles.
Forano has a few bars and shops, while fuel is easier to find in the valley towns, such as Passo Corese or Poggio Mirteto. A lunch of local olive oil, bread, cheese and cured meats, perhaps in a trattoria in one of the hill towns, is the perfect way to taste the Sabina. The Tivoli and Sabine hills roads continue south and east, a natural extension of the day.