Draguignan is a market town in the heart of the Var, set in a basin among wooded hills about thirty kilometres inland from the coast. It is a working town rather than a tourist resort, home to France's artillery school and a large military camp at Canjuers on the plateau to the north. The old town has narrow lanes, plane-shaded squares and a distinctive clock tower, and the Saturday market is one of the best in Provence.
Just outside town stands the Pierre de la Fée, a huge prehistoric dolmen, and the surrounding hills are dotted with perched villages like Flayosc, Tourtour and Lorgues. To the north, the land rises towards the Canjuers plateau and the Gorges du Verdon, one of the most spectacular canyons in Europe. Draguignan is a natural gateway to the gorges, and the roads that lead there are among the finest in France.
The riding from Draguignan is superb. Roads climb north through the hills and villages, with tight bends, steep gradients and views over the Var. The route towards Comps-sur-Artuby and the Verdon is a classic, and the corniche roads around the gorges are unforgettable. Surfaces are generally good, but the roads can be narrow, and summer traffic around the Verdon is heavy. Military vehicles are sometimes seen near Canjuers.
Draguignan has full services, including fuel, food and coffee. For a photo, the perched villages in the hills or the views from the roads north of town are rewarding. Summer heat can be intense, so start early and carry water.