Kuki is the kind of place that rarely appears in travel guides, a pleasant, low-rise city in the flat farmland of north-eastern Saitama, crossed by railways, rivers and expressways. Kukichūō is its central district, with shops, homes and offices, and it makes a practical stop on the long run north from Tokyo towards the mountains of Gunma and Tochigi.
The area has one unexpected attraction. A short ride away stands Washinomiya Shrine, often described as one of the oldest Shintō shrines in the Kanto region, with a tall torii gate and a quiet grove. In recent years it has become a pilgrimage site for anime fans, after a popular series set some of its scenes there, and you may see votive plaques decorated with cartoon characters alongside traditional offerings.
The landscape around Kuki is the classic Kanto plain: rice paddies, vegetable fields, rivers held in by high embankments, and scattered towns. The Tone River runs to the north, and the levees offer wide views over the plain. The riding here is easy but not particularly exciting, with straight roads, traffic lights and frequent junctions. The Tōhoku Expressway and the Ken-Ō Expressway meet nearby, providing fast access north and around the Tokyo region, though tolls apply.
Kukichūō has fuel stations, convenience stores and restaurants, including the ubiquitous chains serving ramen, gyūdon and curry. A short break here, perhaps with a visit to Washinomiya, is a good way to rest before the climb into the mountains. Gunma's three famous mountains, Haruna, Akagi and Myōgi, rise ahead, with some of the best riding roads in the Kanto region.