Phoenicia is a small hamlet in the Esopus valley, a few streets of wooden buildings along the creek with mountains on every side. It has the relaxed feel of a place that welcomes hikers, tubers and weekend visitors from the city without losing its character. The Esopus Creek, which runs through the village, is a popular spot for tubing in summer, when people float down the shallow rapids in inner tubes, and for fly fishing in cooler months. The surrounding hills are part of the Catskill Park, a vast area of protected forest.
The valley has played a quiet role in the history of New York. Not far downstream, the Ashokan Reservoir was built in the early twentieth century to supply water to the city, flooding several villages and reshaping the landscape. The water that flows from the Catskills still provides a large share of New York's drinking water, and the reservoir has a long walking path with views of the mountains. The nearby town of Woodstock, famous for its arts community, lent its name to the 1969 festival, though the event itself was held in Bethel, some distance away.
For riders, the approach to Phoenicia along Route 28 is a pleasant, flowing road that follows the Esopus through woods and meadows, with moderate bends and a good surface. It is less demanding than the climbs over the high roads, and a good place to relax after the mountain sections. Traffic can be heavy on summer weekends, with tubers, cyclists and day-trippers, so keep to a steady pace. In autumn, the leaves along the valley are spectacular, and mist often lies on the creek in the morning.
Food is the draw. The main street has a handful of cafés, delis and restaurants that cater to both locals and visitors, and a bakery or diner is a good place to start the day. Prices are moderate, and the portions tend to be large. There is a small railway museum at the old station, and heritage trains sometimes run on the line in season.
Fuel can be limited in the hamlet, so it is better to fill up in Woodstock or Kingston. The nearest town of any size is Marbletown, some distance away, so plan ahead. If you are planning a long day, take a moment to sit by the creek and listen to the water, and let the day settle.