Phetchaburi is one of Thailand's old royal cities, and its skyline is defined by a hill. Phra Nakhon Khiri, known locally as Khao Wang, rises just west of the town centre, its summit crowned by a nineteenth-century palace built for King Mongkut, Rama IV, a mix of Thai, Chinese and European styles, with white chedis and a small observatory where the king, a keen astronomer, studied the stars. A cable car runs up the hill, and the monkeys that live on its slopes are notorious for grabbing anything shiny or edible, so keep your belongings close.
The town itself is pleasantly unhurried, with old wooden shophouses, temples and a river running through the centre. Wat Mahathat Worawihan, with its five tall white prangs, stands out even in a province full of temples. A few kilometres north, the cave temple of Khao Luang is filled with Buddha images, and on sunny mornings shafts of light fall through openings in the roof, creating a magical atmosphere.
Phetchaburi is famous throughout Thailand for its desserts, many of them made with palm sugar from the sugar palms that grow in the surrounding fields. Khanom mo kaeng, a baked custard made with coconut milk, eggs and palm sugar, is the local speciality, and roadside stalls sell it everywhere. It is worth stopping to try.
As a fuel stop, Phetchaburi is ideal. The town has plenty of fuel stations along Phetkasem Road, Highway 4, the main route south from Bangkok towards Hua Hin and the peninsula, as well as restaurants and convenience stores. The highway is wide and fast, but it carries heavy traffic, including trucks and buses, and motorcycles are expected to keep left. Leave the highway for the smaller roads west of town, towards the forested hills of Kaeng Krachan, and the landscape becomes greener and more varied, with palm groves, rice paddies and limestone hills. The best time to ride is the cool season, from November to February.