Further south, the Big Sur coast changes its character. The highway leaves the high bare headlands behind and drops into forest, where the Big Sur River winds through groves of coast redwood and the light under the trees is green and dim. This is the Pfeiffer country, named for a pioneer family who homesteaded here in the 1860s, and the state park that bears their name is one of the best places on the coast to leave the bike and walk among the big trees.
The riding here is slower and more intimate than the cliff-hanging sections to the north. The road dips in and out of canyons, crosses small bridges, and passes a scatter of cafes, lodges and campgrounds under the redwoods, with tourists wandering across it and cyclists in the lane. Speeds are low, and rightly so. Rain and fog make the surface greasy, and the deep shadows of the forest hide patches of damp tarmac long after the sun has dried the rest. Summer can bring a thick marine layer that cools the afternoon, so carry something warm. Traffic is heavy on holiday weekends, and the narrow roads fill with cars in search of parking.
Pfeiffer Beach is the local treasure, reached by a narrow, steep road, Sycamore Canyon Road, that is not suited to large vehicles. At the end, wind-carved rock arches stand in the surf, and in the right light, shafts of sun pour through the largest opening. Some of the sand has a purple tinge, which comes from manganese garnet washed down from the hills. Further south, in Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park, a short trail leads to McWay Falls, a slender cascade that drops directly onto the beach, a lovely sight on a clear afternoon. The sea here is cold and dangerous, with strong currents, so keep to the sand.
There are small services at the Big Sur village area just to the north, with a general store, a couple of restaurants and fuel at a high price, which is worth knowing if the gauge is dropping. The nearest larger towns are in the Monterey area, a good thirty to forty kilometres off, and nothing else is guaranteed. Keep a close eye on the closure notices, and take your time. The coast rewards patience far more than speed.