Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky sits on Avacha Bay, one of the finest natural harbours in the world, at the southeastern end of the Kamchatka Peninsula, and it feels like the edge of everything. There is no road from here to the rest of Russia, so the city is reached by air or sea, and the peninsula around it holds more volcanoes than towns. The town was founded in 1740 by the expedition of Vitus Bering, and named after his two ships, the St Peter and the St Paul. It was a naval base throughout the Soviet era and closed to foreigners for decades.
The skyline is dominated by volcanoes. Koryaksky, a symmetrical cone of about 3,450 metres, and Avachinsky, about 2,750 metres, stand to the north of the city, snow-capped for much of the year, and Avachinsky is active, with a plume of steam on some days. On a clear day, they glow pink in the morning light, a sight that is part of the city's identity. The harbour holds fishing boats and naval vessels, with a monument to Bering on the waterfront. Salmon runs, brown bears and sea eagles are part of the surroundings, and the region's Pacific coast is wild and little visited.
The roads outside town are few but spectacular. The road toward Vilyuchinsk, a naval submarine base across the bay, and the Vilyuchinsky volcano, crosses a pass with views over the bay, while the road to the Khalaktyrsky beach leads to a long, dark strand of volcanic sand facing the Pacific. The surface varies from good tarmac to rough gravel, and rain, fog and wind can come quickly. Bears are a real concern, and you should make noise on walks and never leave food around. The riding season is short, usually from June to September, with snow possible at higher altitude outside that period.
Petropavlovsk is a city of nearly two hundred thousand, with fuel stations, shops, repair services and hotels. Yelizovo, about twenty-five kilometres north, has the airport and more services. Beyond, stations are scarce, so fill the tank and carry spares if you plan to go far. Mobile signal may fade away from the city.
Seafood is the thing to eat here, king crab, salmon and red caviar, and prices are lower than you might expect. The hot springs in the hills are a fine reward after a day in the cold.