A few kilometres from the town of Belomorsk, where the Vyg river runs out over bare granite on its way to the White Sea, someone about five thousand years ago sat down and started carving. Over time they and their descendants left thousands of figures in the polished rock: reindeer and elk, boats with crews, people on skis, whale hunts, and strange dancing figures that archaeologists still argue about. The main group on the Vyg is called Zalavruga, found in 1926 and recorded in detail over the following decades, and it counts among the finest rock art in northern Europe.
Do not expect a visitor centre with a car park full of coaches. The rocks lie on the river bank near the edge of the forest, and the best time to see the lines is in low sun or just after rain, when the shallow grooves cast shadows. Some panels are covered to protect them, and a local guide or a museum visit in Belomorsk helps a great deal. Allow time to stand and look at the skiers and the boats, because the longer you stare the more sense the scenes make.
The riding here is quiet northern Karelia. The federal road to Murmansk, the R21, carries lorries and cars, but it has long open stretches through pine and bog, with lakes flashing between the trees, and little traffic outside the holidays. The surface can be patchy after winter, so keep an eye out for frost heaves and watch for elk at dusk. Belomorsk, with about twelve thousand people, has fuel and shops, and the Vyg river here also hosts the start of the White Sea Canal, which was dug by prisoners in the early 1930s at terrible cost.
Mosquitoes and black flies are the real hazard from June to August, so carry repellent and keep your visor shut when you stop. The best months are late May to September, and the days in June barely end. Check current travel advice for Russia before making any plans, since conditions for visitors can change.