Peterhof is Peter the Great's answer to Versailles, built on the south shore of the Gulf of Finland, and for a few weeks of the year it is the only place in Russia where the fountains outshine the architecture. The palace stands on a bluff above the sea, and from its terrace the Grand Cascade tumbles down toward the canal, with golden statues and a central figure of Samson wrestling a lion, the symbol of Russia's victory over Sweden at Poltava in 1709. A straight canal runs from the cascade to the Gulf, and the park is full of lesser pavilions, fountains and shaded avenues.
Construction began in the 1710s, as Peter founded Saint Petersburg and wanted a country residence near the sea, and it was expanded by later rulers, especially Elizabeth. Monplaisir, the small pavilion by the water, was Peter's own favourite, simple and low, with a view of the gulf, and it is a good counterweight to the splendour of the main palace. The estate was almost completely destroyed in the Second World War, when the German army occupied the site and burned the buildings, and the restoration that followed is one of the great postwar achievements. The fountains run from about May to early October, and the water is gravity-fed, without pumps, from springs on the higher ground.
For a rider, Peterhof is a stop on a coastal route, and the approach is less romantic than the destination, with urban roads, traffic lights, and heavy traffic on weekends. Expect crowds, parking restrictions, and coach parties in summer, and plan to arrive early or late. The road along the shore has some pleasant stretches between the town and Saint Petersburg, with views of the gulf, though speed limits and cameras are common. Wind off the water can be chilly even in July, and autumn brings rain and fog.
Fuel and food are no problem. Peterhof is a large town, with petrol stations on the main roads, cafés and restaurants around the park, and plenty of hotels. Tickets for the palace and the lower park are separate, and the lines can be long, so book in advance if you can.
Walk down the canal to the sea, and look back at the golden cascade in the afternoon sun. It is theatre on a grand scale.