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Peski

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The name means sands, and it is honest: Peski sits on the sandy terraces of the Moskva River just before it joins the Oka, a landscape of pine woods, small dachas and quiet lanes where the soil drains fast and the trees smell of resin on a warm afternoon. It is a small settlement of a few thousand people in the southeast of Moscow Oblast, between the industrial town of Voskresensk upstream and the old fortress city of Kolomna downstream, along the railway line that runs from Moscow toward Ryazan.

For a rider this is a transition point. Behind you is the sprawl of the capital region, with its heavy traffic and endless roadworks; ahead, as you push toward Ryazan and the poet Sergei Yesenin's home village of Konstantinovo on the Oka, the country opens out into river meadows, fields and long views. The roads around Peski are local ones, narrow and often patched, threading through pine forest and past summer cottages, with the occasional sandy shoulder that can catch a careless wheel. Weekday mornings are quiet; Friday afternoons in summer bring the dacha exodus out of Moscow.

Kolomna, a short ride east, is the place to stop properly. It has one of the best preserved kremlins in the Moscow region, with massive red brick walls and towers from the sixteenth century, and it is famous for pastila, a light, airy confection made from baked apples and egg white whipped together and dried. There are small museums devoted to it, and boxes of the stuff make a good present that weighs almost nothing in a tank bag.

In Peski itself, expect basic shops and not much more. For fuel and a wider choice of food, Voskresensk is about thirteen kilometres away and has everything you need, and Kolomna is not much further. The river banks nearby are popular for swimming in summer, sandy and shallow in places, with locals grilling shashlik on weekends. It is not a grand stop, but in the evening light, with long shadows through the pines and the river slipping past, it has a gentle, unhurried appeal.

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