Përmet lies on the banks of the Vjosa, which many geographers call the last great wild river of Europe, and the water here is a startling blue-green, cold and fast over pale stones. The town sits in a wide basin surrounded by mountains, with the Dhëmbel and Nemërçka ranges standing around it, and in the middle of the valley a huge limestone rock rises above the river. Përmet is known in Albania as the town of roses and of raki, and its gjirokastër-style stone houses in the old quarter give a feel of the Ottoman-era south.
Food is a good reason to stop. The town is famous for gliko, a preserved fruit sweet served on a spoon with a glass of water, and for the grape and plum raki that locals make. Local restaurants also serve grilled meat, stuffed peppers and fresh river trout. The cafés along the promenade are lively in the evening, when families walk and the bridge across the river is crowded with teenagers. There are also thermal springs nearby at Bënjë, where warm sulphur water runs beside the river in a canyon, and visitors can bathe in rocky pools.
The road to Përmet from Ersekë and Leskovik is a rewarding ride, with long descents through forest and open hillside, passing small villages and old stone bridges. The surface varies, and corners can have gravel, so ride within sight. From Përmet, the road down the Vjosa valley toward Këlcyrë follows the river through a gorge, with cliffs close above the water and frequent bends. Spring brings high water and green slopes, and autumn colours are good. Midsummer can be very hot in the valley, and early morning is best.
With over ten thousand people, Përmet has fuel stations, shops, banks and restaurants, and it is the major service point of the valley. It is a comfortable place to stay overnight, with simple guesthouses and hotels. If you have time, walk down to the river, put your hand in the water and notice how cold it is even in August, then look up at the rock above the town and imagine the winters when it is capped with snow.