The Perito Moreno Glacier is one of the few big glaciers in the world that is not retreating dramatically, and it is also one of the easiest to see. It flows from the Southern Patagonian Ice Field into Lago Argentino in the Los Glaciares National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and ends in a wall of blue and white ice about five kilometres wide and as high as a twenty-storey building above the water. The glacier is named for Francisco Moreno, the explorer, and the sound it makes is part of the experience: a deep, sharp crack like a gunshot, followed by a roar as a chunk of ice the size of a house peels off and crashes into the lake.
The ride from El Calafate, around eighty kilometres to the east, is a pleasure. The road is paved and in good condition, with gentle curves along the south shore of Lago Argentino and fine views of the turquoise water and the mountains beyond. Wind can be strong, especially on the lake shore, and gusts across the road need respect. In summer, the road is busy with tour buses, so start early to enjoy it with less company. In winter, snow and ice can make conditions tough.
At the park gate, you will pay an entrance fee, and the rangers will tell you about opening times and any restrictions. A network of walkways and viewing platforms brings you within a few hundred metres of the ice front, and there is a small cafe and visitor centre. Wear warm clothes, as the wind blowing off the ice is bitterly cold even on a sunny day.
The glacier has a long history of dramatic ruptures, when it advances across a channel of the lake, dams the water and builds up pressure until the ice arch collapses in a spectacular rush. This cycle has happened many times, though it is not predictable. The best views come in the afternoon, when the sun hits the ice front and brings out the deep blue colour. Sit on a platform, listen for the crack, and watch the ice for a while. It is a reminder of the slow, powerful forces that shaped this land.