Țara Năsăudului, the Land of Năsăud, is a hilly corner of Bistrița-Năsăud county in northern Romania, and it has a strong sense of its own identity. In the eighteenth century the Habsburgs organised the villages here into a military frontier district, with a Romanian border regiment that defended the empire's eastern edge in return for freedom from serfdom. The people of the area were proud of that status, and the schools and institutions founded with the regiment's funds helped create a remarkable tradition of learning. Two of Romania's best-loved writers grew up nearby: the poet George Coșbuc, born in the village that now bears his name, and the novelist Liviu Rebreanu, whose books describe the lives of Transylvanian peasants.
Perișor and the hillside called Corobana lie near Zagra, in a valley north of the Someș. The site here is one of many recorded archaeological locations in the area, and the landscape is gentle and green, with rolling hills, meadows, orchards and patches of beech forest. To the north, the mountains rise: the Țibleș and the Rodna, with peaks over two thousand metres and snow well into spring.
Village life here is still traditional. People wear embroidered costumes on Sundays and festivals, haystacks dot the meadows, and wooden gates guard the farmyards. The local plum brandy, țuică or the stronger palincă, is offered to visitors with pride.
The riding is excellent. The roads wind through the hills and valleys with good views, little traffic and a variety of bends. Surfaces vary, from smooth new asphalt to potholed stretches and gravel. To the north, the road over the Rotunda pass towards Bucovina, or the climb towards the Rodna mountains, offer more challenging and spectacular riding. Watch for horse-drawn carts, livestock and dogs.
Năsăud is the nearest town with full services, including fuel, supermarkets and restaurants; Beclean and Bistrița are also close. The villages have small shops and bars. The weather is continental, with warm summers and cold winters; in the mountains, snow can linger into May. Spring and early autumn are the best seasons for riding, with fresh green meadows or golden forests. Stop in a village, ask about the local festivals, and you may be invited in for a glass of something strong.