From almost anywhere in the southern half of Valencia province you can see it: a long, jagged ridge of grey limestone with a sharp tooth at its eastern end, standing on the skyline like a broken saw. The Benicadell, at 1,104 metres, separates the Vall d'Albaida to the north from the Comtat to the south, and the sharp summit, the Penya, is the mountain's signature. At its foot lie the villages of Beniarrés, Ràfol de Salem and Otos.
The Benicadell has been a landmark for as long as people have lived in this region. Its slopes and ravines are rich in prehistoric sites, with painted shelters in the Barranc de l'Infern and other ravines around the mountain. During the Muslim period, the area was fortified, and the ruins of castles still crown hilltops in the area. The summit is a popular hike, with a path that climbs from the Port d'Albaida or the Port de Salem, and the views from the top stretch from the sea to the mountains of the interior.
Otos, on the northern side, has turned itself into an outdoor gallery of sundials. Dozens of them, designed by artists, decorate the walls of houses in the village, each one different, and walking around to find them is a pleasant way to spend half an hour. Beniarrés, on the southern side, overlooks a reservoir on the Serpis, a stretch of turquoise water surrounded by olive groves.
The riding around the Benicadell is some of the best in the region. The two passes that cross the ridge, the Port d'Albaida and the Port de Salem, are short but twisty climbs with great views, and the roads along the foot of the mountain, through olive and almond groves, are lightly trafficked. The circuit around the mountain, via Beniarrés, Muro, Albaida and Salem, makes a fine half-day loop. Watch out for gravel, cyclists and occasional agricultural vehicles.
Muro de Alcoy, about six kilometres away, is the nearest town with fuel and all services, and Albaida and Ontinyent are close. Local food includes the putxero, a winter stew, and the rice dishes of the area. Spring and autumn are the best seasons.