Penacova perches on a ridge high above the Mondego, and the first thing you notice is the drop. The town looks down into a deep green valley where the river runs through a wooded gorge on its way from the mountains to the sea at Figueira da Foz. A viewpoint at the edge of the town gives a wide look over the river bend, with forested hills on either side. It is a calm spot for a break, and the air feels cooler and fresher than the coast.
The Mondego is the longest river that flows entirely within Portugal, and it has shaped the region's history. Coimbra, the old university city, lies downstream, and the river has long been a route for transporting timber and goods. Close by is the village of Lorvão, with its ancient monastery, which grew from an early medieval foundation into a powerful convent. The building stands in a quiet wooded valley, and its long history of nuns and sweet pastries is part of local tradition.
For riders, Penacova offers some of the nicest roads in central Portugal. The roads that wind along the river and over the surrounding hills are narrow, with plenty of bends, sections of forest shade and views that open suddenly at the top of a climb. Eucalyptus and pine cover much of the hillside, giving the air a strong, resinous scent, particularly after rain. The surface is mixed, and you should watch for gravel on the inside of corners and for leaf litter in the autumn. Summers are warm, and forest fires have affected parts of the region in recent years, so check conditions in the dry season.
Penacova is a small town of around three thousand people, with cafes, small shops and restaurants, and it also has riverside spots for canoeing and relaxing. Poiares, about seven kilometres away, is slightly larger, and Coimbra is the main city in the area for services. A short walk to the viewpoint with a coffee in hand is a good use of time. To the south the road leads toward Luso and the Buçaco forest, which makes a natural pairing with this stop.