Drocourt lies in the middle of the basin, between Lens and Douai, and its landscape tells the story of coal on a human scale. The pit-head frames and brick buildings of the old shafts, the spoil heaps sprouting trees and the long rows of miners' houses lie almost within sight of one another, and together they are listed as part of the UNESCO Mining Basin. Nearby is the old pumping house at the Sarteau shaft, a reminder that water was always the miners' enemy, and that huge machines had to keep the workings dry day and night.
The population of the mining towns changed dramatically after the First World War, when the mines recruited tens of thousands of workers from Poland to replace the dead and wounded. Polish families settled in the villages, built their own churches, formed choirs and clubs, and kept their language and customs for generations, and their influence is still visible in family names and in traditions such as the celebration of Saint Barbara, the patron saint of miners, on 4 December. The basin is one of the few places in France where Polish culture left such a mark.
Riding here is a quiet matter of straight roads, small towns and level crossings. The surface is generally fine, and the main roads carry commuter traffic, while the back lanes are calmer and often lined with old brick houses. The terrils are the landmarks, and many are open for walks, with paths that wind through birch woods to viewpoints. The best times are spring and autumn, when the light is clear and the air is mild. In winter, mist and low cloud can hide the heaps entirely.
Billy-Montigny, Rouvroy and Drocourt all have shops and cafés, and Billy-Montigny is large enough for fuel stations and supermarkets. Try a plate of potjevleesch or a bowl of soup, and look for a bakery selling the local pastries. The people of the basin are famously hospitable, and a conversation in a café can teach you more than any information board.