Pavia lies on the Ticino River in the flat, fertile Po plain south of Milan, and it has a long and surprising past. The Lombards made it their capital in the sixth century, and for two hundred years it was the seat of their kingdom. The University of Pavia, founded in 1361, is among the oldest in Europe, and its students have given the city a youthful, bicycle-filled atmosphere. In 1525 a battle outside the walls ended with the capture of King Francis I of France by the troops of Emperor Charles V, a defeat that changed the balance of power in Europe.
The old centre has red-brick towers, medieval churches and a covered bridge across the river, the Ponte Coperto. The present bridge is a reconstruction, rebuilt after the Second World War when its predecessor, dating from the fourteenth century, was bombed. A few kilometres north, the Certosa di Pavia, a Carthusian monastery begun in 1396, has a spectacular marble facade, one of the finest works of the Lombard Renaissance. The surrounding country is rice land, with flooded paddies in spring that mirror the sky, and risotto is the local staple.
For a rider heading south toward the Ligurian Apennines and Portofino, Pavia is the practical gate. Fuel is plentiful, and coffee and a brioche are easily found. The Oltrepò Pavese, the hills beyond the Po, offer vineyards, small castles and winding roads that climb toward passes such as Penice, where the plain is left behind. In winter, fog can lie thick over the plains, reducing visibility, while summer days can be hot and hazy.
Check traffic around the city in the early morning, since lorries and commuters fill the roads. Cross the Po on the long bridge and enjoy the first folds of the hills. Pavia is lively in the evening, with students gathering at the cafés, and a stop here is a cheerful way to start a long day.