Sixty years ago Pattaya was a fishing village on a quiet bay south-east of Bangkok. Then, in the 1960s, American servicemen on leave from the Vietnam War started coming here for rest and recreation, and the place has never looked back. Today it is one of Thailand's biggest resorts, a city of high-rise hotels, condominium towers, shopping malls and a nightlife scene that is either legendary or notorious, depending on your perspective. It is loud, brash and busy, and for many riders it is a place to eat well, sleep and move on.
There is more to it than Walking Street, though. On the northern edge of the city, the Sanctuary of Truth is an extraordinary temple-like building made entirely of carved wood, still under construction after decades, standing by the sea like a vast, intricate sculpture. South of town, Jomtien Beach is calmer than the main bay, and boats leave for Ko Lan, an island with cleaner water and better beaches. Inland, a short ride takes you to the Silverlake vineyard area and to Khao Chi Chan, a cliff into which a giant golden image of the Buddha has been inlaid.
The food is excellent and varied, from street stalls selling grilled seafood and som tam to international restaurants of every kind. Prices range from very cheap to very expensive, and the choice is endless. Fuel is easy to find throughout the city and along Sukhumvit Road, the main highway running along the coast.
Riding in Pattaya demands patience and vigilance. The streets are crowded with cars, scooters and songthaews, the pick-up trucks used as shared taxis, which stop suddenly and without warning to pick up passengers. Traffic rules are loosely observed, and drunk drivers are a real risk at night. Outside the city, the roads inland towards the hills and lakes are quieter and more pleasant, with green countryside, fruit plantations and small villages. The coolest months, from November to February, are the best time to ride; the rest of the year is hot and often wet.