The Serbian Orthodox Church has had its seat at Pec since the thirteenth century, and the Patriarchate stands where the Rugova gorge opens onto the plain, with the walls of the mountains rising straight behind it. Three churches, joined by a shared porch, make up the complex, and inside them the walls are covered in frescoes that range from the thirteenth to the seventeenth centuries. The oldest, the Church of the Holy Apostles, was built under Archbishop Arsenije and has a serene, early painting style, while the later churches added by his successors show the growing wealth and ambition of the medieval Serbian state. UNESCO lists it together with Visoki Decani and other monasteries as the Medieval Monuments in Kosovo.
The setting is easy to enjoy, with a small garden, a stream, and the sound of the nuns who live there going about their work. Visitors can buy candles, icons and jam, and the monastic community welcomes quiet and respectful guests. The monastery lies in a politically sensitive region and is protected by security forces, so you will normally be asked to show your passport at the gate. Dress modestly, with shoulders and knees covered, and ask before taking photographs inside the churches. Check the local situation and opening hours before you travel, as they can vary.
For riders, the real prize is the Rugova canyon, which begins just outside the town and cuts into the mountains in a deep, narrow gorge with sheer limestone walls. The road threads through tunnels and past waterfalls, and climbs eventually toward the Montenegrin border, with views of rock faces and the high peaks beyond. Surfaces vary, and landslides and rockfalls can be a problem after rain or in spring. The Bistrica river runs through Pec, and the little cafes along it are good for coffee in the sun.
Pec, or Peja, is a lively town of nearly fifty thousand people, with fuel stations, bakeries and restaurants. The local beer, Birra Peja, is a good companion to grilled meat and flija, the layered pancake dish of the region. A few kilometres to the south, the monastery of Visoki Decani is the other great sight of the area, with a magnificent stone church. The best seasons are late spring and autumn, when the weather is mild and the crowds thin.