Patacamaya is a market town on the altiplano, the high plain of Bolivia, at around 3,800 metres on the main road between La Paz and Oruro. It is not a pretty place, and that is part of its character: a straggle of concrete and adobe buildings along the highway, with lorries, minibuses and food stalls clustered at the junction. For motorcyclists it matters because of that junction. Here the road to Chile turns west toward the border at Tambo Quemado and the great volcano Sajama, and anyone heading for that route passes through, with a need for fuel, a meal and a rest.
The altiplano is a vast, cold, treeless plateau lying between two ranges of the Andes. The horizon seems enormous and the sky is a deep blue, with clouds that cast moving shadows over the grass. Llamas and alpacas graze in the fields, tended by Aymara families in bowler hats and layered skirts, and mud-brick houses stand with their backs to the wind. The air is thin and dry, with strong sun in the day and freezing temperatures at night. The effects of altitude are real. Headaches and shortness of breath are common, and a motorcycle runs with less power, so take it slowly and drink plenty of water.
The road itself is paved and generally in good condition, running straight across the plateau with only gentle rises. Wind is the main enemy, and the afternoon gusts can be strong, so a steady grip is needed. Trucks are plentiful and slow. Be careful with dogs and animals on the road, and with the speed bumps at village entrances, which are often unmarked. On the road to Sajama, the landscape becomes ever more striking, as the white cone of Sajama, Bolivia's highest peak at about 6,500 metres, rises in the distance.
Patacamaya is a good place to refuel, since stations are scarce on the way west. Food stalls sell grilled meat, soup, and salteñas, the baked pastries of Bolivia, and street vendors sell coca tea, a traditional remedy for altitude. The Sunday market draws people from the surrounding countryside. Cash is necessary, since cards are rarely accepted. The dry season, from May to October, is the best time to ride, although nights are bitterly cold.