The Jaufenpass, which Italians call Passo Giovo, is a good road that gets very little attention because the roads next to it are so famous. It crosses the ridge between the Sterzing basin and the Passeier valley at 2,094 metres, and it does so with no tolls, no crowds and no fuss. The road climbs from Vipiteno through dark spruce forest, with a clean surface and bends that keep coming, and then emerges above the tree line into open pasture and rock. At the top there is a small restaurant and a car park, and the view down the other side is long and green, with the Texel group of mountains standing in the distance.
The Passeier valley, on the far side, has its own place in the history of the Tyrol. It was the home of Andreas Hofer, the innkeeper who led the Tyrolean uprising against Napoleon's Bavarian allies in 1809, and who was captured and shot in Mantua the following year. He remains a hero in the region, and his farm in the valley is a museum. The road down takes you through orchards and villages toward Merano, and the further you go, the warmer the air becomes, with apples, vines and even palms in the gardens at the bottom.
The riding is a pleasure. On the north side the road is steep and twisty, with enough hairpins to keep you busy, and on the south side the bends are longer and smoother. The gradient is relentless in places, and in wet weather the forest sections can be slick with needles and moisture. Traffic is lighter than on the Brenner or the Timmelsjoch, though cyclists and campers use it on summer weekends. The pass is usually open from late spring to early autumn, and it can be closed or require care after heavy snow.
There is a small hut at the top for coffee and a simple meal, and the Ratschings ski area and its summer lifts lie a short way to the side. Fuel is the main thing to plan. Vipiteno, about ten kilometres away, is the bigger town and has several stations, while the Passeier valley has pumps in St Leonhard. Fill before you go, since the climb itself has no services.
Tyrolean weather can change quickly, so bring a layer, especially if you are crossing in the afternoon. In the early morning, the forest is still and the road is empty, and it is easy to see why local riders keep this one quiet.