Passo del Penice is where Lombardy, Emilia and Liguria nearly meet, a pass of about 1,150 metres crossing the Apennines between the Oltrepò Pavese and the valley of Bobbio. It is not a snow-capped giant but a long, wooded ridge with grass slopes and views to the plains and the Alps on clear days. On the summit of Monte Penice stand radio and television masts, which are visible from many kilometres away, and a small sanctuary church sits close to the top. The Giro d'Italia has crossed it in the past, and local cyclists regard it as a rite of passage.
The road from the north climbs through Oltrepò Pavese, an area of vineyards and small villages, and it reaches the pass through beech and chestnut woods. The bends are open and the gradient steady, with enough variation to keep you alert but not so much that you need to fight the bike. The surface is generally good, and traffic is light except on summer weekends, when cyclists and motorcyclists from Milan arrive in numbers. The descent toward Bobbio is more intimate, with tighter bends and a feeling of leaving the bright plain for older, darker country.
The food of the area is excellent. Varzi, on the northern side, is famous for its salame, which has protected status and a delicate flavour from slow curing in cool cellars. In the valleys you will find Piacentine specialities such as pancetta, coppa and pasta dishes with ragù or mushrooms, all served in small trattorie that often close in the afternoon, so plan your meals. The Oltrepò wines, especially the red Bonarda and the sparkling whites, are worth a taste if you are not riding.
For fuel, Bobbio and Varzi are the nearest towns, but both are small, so top up before you begin the pass. A few cafés and restaurants open near the top in the season, though they may be closed midweek or in winter. A hot drink in a mountain café is a good way to enjoy the quiet.
Weather deserves attention. Fog and cloud often sit on the ridge, and in winter snow and ice can close the road for a short time. In summer, thunderstorms build quickly on the heights. Early morning is best, with clear air and almost no traffic, and the light on the vineyards below is lovely.