Passo Costalunga, known in German as the Karerpass, is the saddle at 1,752 metres that carries the road from the Bolzano side into the Val di Fassa. It is not a spectacular pass in itself, with its broad, wooded crossing and gentle slopes, but it sits at the foot of some of the most famous mountains in the Dolomites, and the view from the pass is one of the best things about it. To the south rise the Latemar, a ragged crest of pale rock, and to the north the Rosengarten, or Catinaccio, with its pink and orange towers.
The Rosengarten has its own legend. King Laurin, a dwarf ruler of the mountains, had a magnificent rose garden that he protected with a spell, and when he was captured by a knight he cursed the roses so that no one would see them by day or night. He forgot the twilight, so at dawn and dusk the rock still glows rose-red, a phenomenon known in the Dolomites as the Enrosadira. It is a beautiful effect, and the best place to see it is from here or from the shore of Lake Carezza on the northern side of the pass.
The road over the pass is part of the Great Dolomites Road, which was opened in 1909 to connect Bolzano with Cortina d'Ampezzo, one of the earliest tourist routes through the mountains. It is easy riding, with a good surface, flowing bends and moderate gradients, and it is a wonderful warm-up for the bigger passes. Traffic can be heavy in July and August, and the road is often busy with coaches and cyclists. In winter, the road is plowed and usually open, though snow and ice can make it tricky.
The pass itself is a lovely place for a break. There are a couple of hotels and cafes at the top, and pastures where cows graze and walkers set off into the forest. Moena, on the Fassa side, is a larger village with fuel and food, and it is only about five kilometres down. Nova Levante, on the other side, offers the same, so it is easy to fill before you climb.
The Ladin and German cultures meet at this pass, and you will see both languages on signs and menus. Try the local cheese and speck, and in autumn the pastries made with apples from the Bolzano orchards.