The road that leaves Arachova and climbs toward the ski station on Mount Parnassus is one of the best high roads in central Greece, and few visitors on the coach tours to Delphi ever take it. It starts in the town's last bends, where the stone houses give way to fir forest, and rises past the Kellaria and Fterolakka ski areas, with long views back down over the olive groves toward the Gulf of Corinth. Mount Parnassus itself reaches 2,457 metres, a massive block of limestone that was sacred to Apollo and the Muses in antiquity, and the road runs up most of its southern flank.
The ancient Greeks believed that the oracle at Delphi spoke the words of Apollo, delivered through the priestess known as the Pythia, and that the sanctuary stood at the centre of the world. The Corycian Cave, high on the plateau of Parnassus above Delphi, was a sacred place to Pan and the nymphs, and can be reached on foot from the plateau. These associations give the mountain a presence that goes beyond its height.
The forest here is mostly Greek fir, which grows dark and dense on the lower slopes, giving way to open, rocky ground above the tree line. In spring, there are crocuses and wild tulips on the high meadows, and in summer, grazing sheep and goats wander across the road. The bends are tight and steady, with gradients that keep you in second and third gear, and the surface can be rough near the top, where winter frost and snowploughs do their damage. It is a quiet road for most of the year, except at ski-season weekends, when traffic from Athens fills it.
Be aware that conditions change quickly with height. Even when it is warm in Arachova, the upper part of the road can be cold and windy, and snow may linger into late spring. In winter the road is often icy or covered, and chains may be required for vehicles, so check before you go. Fog also rolls in quickly, and the drops at the edge are unprotected in places.
There are no services on the mountain itself outside the ski season, so fill up at Arachova, which has fuel stations, tavernas and cafes. Amfikleia, to the north-east, and Delphi to the south-west, are the other nearby places. Carry water, and take a layer you can add at the top.