Parma sits on the Via Emilia, the straight Roman road that crosses the plain from Rimini to Piacenza, and today it is known above all for what is eaten there. Parmigiano-Reggiano and Prosciutto di Parma both come from this corner of Emilia, and a visit is not complete without a slice of each, accompanied by a glass of local sparkling red such as Lambrusco, which is sold everywhere. The pasta here is stuffed with spinach and ricotta, and the fried bread called torta fritta arrives with plates of cured meat.
The old city is among the most elegant in northern Italy, with a Romanesque cathedral that has a famous dome painted by Correggio, and next to it the octagonal pink marble baptistery, a masterpiece designed by Benedetto Antelami in the late twelfth century. The great Teatro Regio is a temple of opera, and the town was the home of Giuseppe Verdi, who was born in a village nearby. The Pilotta, a huge palace complex, holds museums and a remarkable wooden theatre.
For a rider, the important thing is the limited traffic zone. Most of the historic centre is closed to non-resident vehicles, and cameras issue fines automatically, so park outside the ring of avenues and walk in. Several car parks and garages around the edge are fine for a motorcycle. Fuel is easy to find on the ring road and the roads out of town.
The Mille Miglia, the famous open road race that ran between Brescia and Rome from 1927 to 1957, passed through Parma, and each May the modern historic re-enactment brings long lines of classic cars through the same streets. If your trip coincides, the atmosphere in town is wonderful. The surrounding country is flat, but the foothills of the Apennines south of the town offer better riding.
Give yourself a couple of hours to walk through the old streets as the evening light warms the stone.