Between the Ribeira de Iguape river and the coast of southern São Paulo state, the land is low, green and wet, covered in a patchwork of banana plantations, rice fields, mangroves and patches of dense Atlantic Forest. The Pariquera-Abaixo State Park protects one of these patches, part of the larger network of Atlantic Forest reserves of southeast Brazil listed by UNESCO in 1999, a region that holds some of the most extensive surviving stretches of this once vast forest.
The Vale do Ribeira, as the region is known, is one of the least developed corners of São Paulo state, and that has helped preserve its nature. The forest is home to a huge diversity of plants and animals, from bromeliads and orchids to toucans, monkeys and, deeper in the hills, the elusive jaguar. Rivers wind slowly through the lowlands, and in the morning, mist rises from the water and the forest echoes with birdsong. The town of Registro, nearby, was a centre of Japanese immigration in the early twentieth century, and its tea plantations and Japanese heritage are still visible today.
The main artery is the BR-116, the Régis Bittencourt highway, linking São Paulo with Curitiba, busy with trucks and known for its heavy traffic. Side roads to the coast and into the hills are quieter, winding through banana groves and small towns, though surfaces vary and rain can turn unpaved roads to mud. The climate is warm and humid all year, with heavy rains in summer, from December to March, when storms can be sudden and intense.
Fuel is available in Pariquera-Açu, Registro and Iguape, as well as along the highway. Iguape, founded in the sixteenth century, is one of the oldest towns in Brazil, with a colonial centre and a pilgrimage church that attracts thousands. Try local dishes based on fish and shrimp, banana sweets and cakes, and fresh tropical fruit from roadside stalls. Bring insect repellent and rain gear, and allow time for a walk in the forest, where the variety of greens is extraordinary.