Valcamonica is a long, narrow valley that runs north from Lake Iseo into the Alps, and for about eight thousand years people have been carving pictures on its rocks. The Camuni, an Iron Age people, left the most, but the earliest carvings belong to hunters of the end of the ice age, and the latest belong to medieval travellers. In all, there are hundreds of thousands of figures, scratched or pecked into smooth glacial sandstone: deer, warriors, ploughmen, huts, maps, dancers and strange sun-like symbols. In 1979 it became the first site in Italy to be placed on the World Heritage list.
The national park at Naquane, near Capo di Ponte, is the place to see the carvings, with paths winding through chestnut woods between big polished slabs. The famous Rosa Camuna, a swirling flower-like symbol, has become the emblem of Lombardy. Close by is the Seradina-Bedolina park and a handsome Romanesque monastery, and the valley is dotted with castles and chapels. Walking among the rocks, with sun on the stone and a smell of resin, is oddly intimate, as though the artists had just stepped out.
The valley is also an excellent starting point for riders. Capo di Ponte lies on the road to Edolo, where the great passes begin: the Passo del Tonale to the north-east, the Aprica to the north, and the Gavia and Mortirolo for serious mountain riders. Roads rise through forests of fir and pine, with tight hairpins and fine views over snow-streaked peaks. Surfaces are generally good, but passes close in winter, and the high ones are often open only from June to October. Weekend traffic builds, with cyclists and motorcyclists out in force.
Capo di Ponte is a small town with only basic services, and the nearest larger town is Darfo Boario Terme, twenty kilometres south, where you will find fuel, supermarkets and hotels. Local food is mountain fare, with polenta, cured meats, casoncelli pasta and strong cheeses. Opening times for the park vary, so check before you set out, and wear shoes with good grip on the stone.