Valcamonica, the long valley of the Oglio river north of Lake Iseo, holds one of the largest collections of prehistoric rock carvings in the world, with hundreds of thousands of figures pecked into smooth glacier-polished rocks over thousands of years. It was the first site in Italy to be listed by UNESCO, in 1979. The Luine park, on a wooded hill above Darfo Boario Terme at the southern end of the valley, is one of the places where you can see these engravings up close, with paths leading between rock surfaces covered in figures of animals, people, weapons and mysterious symbols.
The carvings at Luine are among the oldest in the valley, and some may date back to the end of the last Ice Age, while others were made in later periods. The most famous symbol of Valcamonica, the Camunian rose, a curving, four-armed design, has been adopted as the emblem of the Lombardy region. Walking among the rocks, often in dappled shade under chestnut trees, you get a sense of a sacred landscape, used and reused over countless generations. Darfo Boario Terme itself is a spa town, with thermal baths and a park with Art Nouveau buildings.
For riders, Valcamonica is a gateway to some of the best roads in the Alps. The valley road runs north towards Edolo and the Passo del Tonale, and side roads climb to the Passo del Vivione, a narrow, dramatic pass with tight bends and huge views, and to the Passo di Crocedomini and the Gavia, high passes with spectacular scenery, though they are often closed in winter and can be challenging, with narrow sections and steep drops. To the south, the road along Lake Iseo offers gentle curves and lake views.
Darfo Boario Terme has around fifteen thousand people and plenty of fuel, shops and restaurants. The valley is known for its cheeses, such as Silter, and for casoncelli, stuffed pasta served with butter and sage. Try a glass of wine from the nearby Franciacorta region, famous for its sparkling wines. Visit the rock carvings early in the day, when the low sun makes the engravings easier to see.