Masoala is the great green thumb of Madagascar, a peninsula pushing into the Indian Ocean in the northeast of the island, and the national park that fills it is the biggest protected area in the country. The rainforest here comes down to the beach, and the border between trees and sea is almost nonexistent, so you can stand on white sand with palms behind you and coral in front. Antongil Bay, on the western side, is deep and wide, and humpback whales come there to breed between about July and September.
The wildlife is a roll call of Madagascar's strangest residents. The red ruffed lemur is found only on this peninsula, and lives high in the canopy, making loud, raucous calls. There are chameleons, leaf-tailed geckos, tomato frogs and countless orchids, and the aye-aye, the lemur with the spindly finger, is believed to live in the forest too, though it is rarely seen. Zurich Zoo even built a replica Masoala rainforest in a hall, which tells you how special the place is to naturalists.
There is no proper road through Masoala, which is part of what has protected it. Visitors come by boat from Maroantsetra or by tracks from the town of Antalaha, the centre of Madagascar's vanilla industry, and roads in the region are rough, often muddy and prone to washouts. The dry season from September to December is the most dependable time, and the cyclone season between January and March brings heavy rain and storm risk.
Be ready for self-sufficiency. Fuel is available only in the larger towns, and you will want to carry extra if you try overland travel. Local guides, who are required in the park, know the trails and keep you safe from stumbles and surprises. Take insect repellent, light waterproofs and good boots, and enjoy a cup of locally grown vanilla tea in the evening.