At the northern tip of the Masoala peninsula, the land swings toward Cap Est, the eastern point of Madagascar, and the landscape changes. The rainforest here meets the Indian Ocean directly, with white beaches, coral reefs and rocky headlands, and in places the trees reach almost to the waterline. This is the exposed side of Masoala, battered by cyclones and strong swells, and it is a wilder coast than the sheltered bay on the west.
The marine parks that belong to Masoala protect reefs and islands offshore, where turtles, dolphins and, from July to September, humpback whales pass close to the shore. Snorkeling is possible in calm conditions, and the coral in places is healthy. On land, the forest holds the same species found elsewhere in the park, with lemurs, chameleons and many birds, but visitors often notice the sea first, with its sound and smell present in every part of the forest.
The towns to the north, Antalaha and Sambava, are the centers of Madagascar's vanilla industry. The coast here is lined with vanilla vines trained on trees and poles, and the beans are pollinated by hand, a delicate and labor-intensive job. In the harvest season, the smell of curing vanilla fills the air around the villages. The industry has made this region richer than many parts of Madagascar, but prices swing wildly and thefts are common.
The roads in the area are rough. The coastal route between Antalaha and the peninsula is dirt and mud, often washed out by rain, and in cyclone season from January to March, it can be impassable. Smaller local motorbikes are the usual transport, and a sturdy dual-sport machine with a skilled rider can manage in dry weather. Streams are crossed by fords and ferries, and there is no official road around the peninsula. Local guidance is almost essential. Fuel is available in Antalaha and Sambava, but not in the villages, and supplies can be limited, so carry extra. Food is simple, with rice, fish and tropical fruit, and accommodation ranges from small guesthouses in town to basic huts on the coast. The best months are September to December, when the rain eases and the sea is calmer. In the evening, with the surf rolling in and the forest darkening behind, the place feels like the edge of the world.