Deeper into the Masoala peninsula, away from the bay, the land climbs into steep ridges covered in wet forest, and here the sense of remoteness grows. The park has no real roads through this interior, and rivers and footpaths are the arteries. Heavy rain, which can exceed five or six meters a year, feeds streams that rush down the slopes, and the forest is thick with tree ferns, climbing bamboo and epiphytes. It is a hot, humid world where leaves drip all night and the ground is covered in moss.
The wildlife is shy and hidden, and patience is rewarded. Chameleons, including the tiny leaf chameleons, sit on twigs at night where a flashlight picks them out, and the spectacular Parson's and panther chameleons are found in the lower forest. The tailless tenrec, mouse lemurs and the elusive aye-aye live in the canopy, and at night you may hear the high, cat-like calls of the red ruffed lemur. Birds such as the helmet vanga and the Madagascar serpent eagle are rare sights, and the forest is rich in orchids.
Local people live on the edges, practicing small-scale agriculture and fishing, and many work as guides. The Betsimisaraka communities have a close relationship with the forest, and traditional taboos, called fady, protect certain places and species. Respect for those customs is part of visiting, and guides will explain what is allowed. As for riding, the truth is that this area is not for motorcycles. The nearest roads are rough tracks around Maroantsetra and the villages of the coast, and even four-wheel-drive vehicles struggle during the wet season. Cyclones can hit between January and March, when travel is difficult or impossible. The drier months from September to December are the best time to visit, though showers can occur at any time. Most visitors arrive by boat and hike with a guide. Bring what you need, including water purification, rain gear and plenty of insect repellent. Camping and simple lodges provide a place to sleep, and food is basic, with rice, beans and fish.
The reward is a sense of wildness that few places can match. At night, the forest hums with life, and the stars above the clearing seem close enough to touch.