The Paracas National Reserve is a stretch of desert coastline on the Pacific shore of Peru, where the dry land meets the cold, rich waters of the Humboldt Current, and the contrast between the two is startling. Pale sand dunes, red cliffs and rocky headlands drop to a sea that is full of fish, and the air is thick with seabirds. The name Paracas comes from the Quechua for sand rain, a reference to the strong winds that sweep across the desert in the afternoon, and anyone who rides here will understand why.
The road from Pisco follows the shore, running through the reserve on a mix of paved and gravel surface. Corners are gentle, the distances short and the scenery is spectacular, with the colour of the cliffs changing through the day. Wind is the great factor. It can pick up fine sand and blast it across the road, so goggles and a buff over your face are sensible, and it can push a bike sideways on the exposed sections. The best time to ride is early morning, when the wind is lower, and the best months are December to April, when the weather is warm and dry.
The reserve has a small entrance fee, and there is a visitor centre with a museum that tells the story of the Paracas culture, an ancient society known for its beautiful textiles and mummies. Paracas, the nearest village, about six kilometres away, has restaurants serving fresh fish and ceviche, along with hotels and a seafront. Pisco, with some sixty thousand people, has fuel, shops and repair services, so fill up there. Pisco is also the home of the grape brandy of the same name, a clear spirit that Peruvians drink in a cocktail called the pisco sour.
The wildlife is a highlight. Flamingos feed in the shallows, pelicans and boobies dive for fish, and sea lions bask on the rocks, while boat trips from the village run out to the Ballestas Islands, where penguins, sea lions and thousands of seabirds crowd the cliffs. Along the shore, the beaches, including the Red Beach, with its dark red sand, are perfect for walking. A famous rock arch known as the Cathedral collapsed in an earthquake in 2007, a reminder of the forces that keep reshaping this coast.